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history
- food : pizza

Pizza
The word - "Pizza"
The word "pizza" is said to have originated from
the old Italian word for "a point." Over time, this
word evolved into the Italian "pizziare," meaning
to pinch or to pluck. The word is thought to have first appeared
around 100 BC in the Neapolitan dialect.
The dish - "Pizza"
While the Italians are credited with creating pizza as we
know it today, the pie might have actually derived from the
Etruscan and Greek cultures. From Asia Minor, the Etruscan's
baked a crude form of bread beneath the stones of their fires.
After cooking, the bread was seasoned with various toppings
and served as a side dish. Eventually this form of pizza evolved
into present-day focaccia. The Greeks, who ate flat round
bread (plankuntos) baked with an assortment of toppings.
When the Greeks colonised southern Italy, they took the Etruscan
contribution and baked a layer of toppings on the bread. This
newly configured "pizza" became the main course
of the meal. The Romans, however, are rightly credited with
spreading pizza throughout Italy and other areas of their
empire. The great Roman statesman and orator Cicero described
pizza as "flat rounds of dough dressed with olive oil;
herbs and honey and baked on stones."
The tomato came to Italy from Mexico and Peru through Spain
in the 16th century as an ornamental plant first thought to
be poisonous. True mozzarella is made from the milk of the
water buffalo imported from India in the 7th century and was
not widely available as a cheese product in Southern Italy
and Campania until the second half of the eighteenth century.
In 1830 the world's first true pizzeria, Antica Pizzeria
Port' Alba, opened and is still in business today at Via Port'Alba
18 in Naples! The world's best and unarguably the most authentic
pizza is Pizza Napoletana (Neapolitan Pizza), which maintains
its pre-eminence through the quality of the local products
- herbs, garlic, and tomatoes grown in the volcanic ash of
Vesuvius and fresh mozzarella - and the artistry of the pizzaioli,
the pizza makers.
Considered a peasant's meal in Italy for centuries, the modern
pizza is attributed to baker Raffaele Esposito of Napoli (Naples)
in the Italian region of Campania. In 1889, Esposito of Pizzeria
di Pietro (now called Pizzeria Brandi) baked pizza especially
for the visit of the Italian King; Umberto I and Queen Margherita
and for one of the pizzas embellished the classic pizza alla
marinara with mozzarella and basil. The pizza was very patriotic
and resembled the Italian flag with its colours of green (basil),
white (mozzarella), and red (tomatoes) and was favoured by
the Queen. This pizza was named "pizza Margherita"
after the Queen and set the standard by which today's pizza
evolved, as well as firmly establishing Naples as the pizza
capitol of the world.
The verapizzanapoletana sets down the rules for ingredients
of the dough and cooking by which its member pizzerias must
abide. Simply stated, dough is made only with flour, natural
yeast or brewers yeast, salt and water. Dough must be kneaded
by hand or mixers which do not cause the dough to overheat,
and the dough must be punched down and shaped by hand. The
oven must be a wood burning oven and structured in a bell
shape and of special brick with the floor of the pizza oven
constructed of volcanic stone. The cooking of the pizza must
take place on the surface of the oven and not in any pan or
container with oven temperatures reaching at least 750-800°
F.
Pizza migrated to America with the Italians in the latter
half of the 19th century. The first pizza was sold in America
as "bakers focaccia" to Italian immigrants, who
rented bakers' ovens during the time of day when business
was slow. The immigrants saved some extra bread and served
it with tomato to hungry children.
Eventually, the Italian immigrants were able to afford direct
purchases of bread consisting of dough, tomato puree, oregano,
basil and grated Romano Cheese. By the turn of the century,
Italians had begun to open their own bakeries and were selling
groceries as well as pizza.
Gennaro Lombardi opened the first true U.S. pizzeria in 1905
in New York City at 53 1/3 Spring Street : LOMBARDIS it has
been reopened at 32 Spring Street).
It wasn't until after World War II when returning GI's created
a nation-wide demand for the pizza they had eaten and loved
in Italy that pizza went public.
In the late 1950's, Pizza Hut, Shakey's and various other
mass production pizza parlours appeared and further popularised
pizza.
ITALIAN REGIONAL CUISINE
Until 1891 Italy was a collection of independent states, each
with its own laws, customs and traditions. Naturally becoming
one country, did and does not mean those regional customs
and traditions were lost.
There is a particularly marked difference between northern
and southern Italy; regions in the north tend to be more industrialised
and prosperous than those in the south, with the northern
soil being more fertile.
The differences in cuisine is that the northern Italians
tend to prefer the flatter pasta and cook with butter, whereas
those in the south tend towards the tubular varieties and
prefer the use of olive oil.
Well known pasta dishes from the northern province of Liguria
include ravioli and minestrone soup. The rice growing area
in the Po Valley, just behind Venice, provides abundant supplies
of arboreo rice. This especially absorbent rice is the basis
for risottos and an excellent way of stretching small amounts
of fish and meat to feed a large family. Many delicious, creamy
risotto recipes have evolved: risotto Milanaise from Lombardy
must be one of the best known. Two of the most famous products
of the north are Parmesan cheese and prosciutto (Parma) ham.
Parmesan cheese is at its best after two years of drying and
maturing, it becomes stronger the longer it is left. The whey
from the cheese is fed to the Parma pigs and combined with
the careful salting and drying processes on the hillsides,
results in the delicately flavoured ham.
As Italy is virtually surrounded by the sea, locally caught
fish are a dominant feature of most regional cuisines. Venice
is particularly noted for its red and grey mullet, squid,
scampi and mussels. In the north, sea fish supplies are supplemented
by excellent fresh water fish from the lakes of Lombardy,
especially eels.
Southern provinces
The southern coast and the islands of Sicily and Sardinia
are dotted with fishing villages. Here tuna, sardines, swordfish
and a variety of shellfish are caught and used locally in
pasta dishes, sauces, soups, stews and salads.
Abundant supplies of tomatoes, garlic, herbs and anchovies
in the south, give their dishes their characteristic aromatic
quality. Naples the culinary centre of the south, claims the
invention of the pizza and ice cream as we know it today.
Pizzas are baked in open brick ovens of pizzerias and bakeries,
and most often eaten as snacks. Mozzarella; the cheese used
for pizza toppings has been for centuries made in the surrounding
countryside of Campania. It is a good melting cheese and lends
itself well to all types of pizzas and cooked dishes. The
equally famous Italian ices are made in mouth watering flavours,
and like pizza, have spread all over Italy and the world.
The information contained here is supplied for your
interest only and further research may be required. I have
gathered it from many sources over many years. While I attempt
to insure they are crossed referenced for accuracy, I take
no responsibility for mistakes - additions or corrections
are welcomed.

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chef@tallyrand.info
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