history - cooking: New Zealand Cuisine Development

New Zealand Cuisine Development

Where, when and how NZ Cuisine developed

The past hundred years or so have seen many changes in both the kinds of food eaten and in the when, where and why they are eaten.

There have also been marked changes both in food preparation and in who actually prepares the food. To a large extent these changes reflect on interaction between two aspects of food in New Zealand. First, its preparation and eating as an essential part of personal living, and second, its production for sale overseas as an essential part of the national economic life. The latter has often dominated or determined the kinds of food eaten.

In addition to these influences of availability and production, changes in eating have resulted from the interplay of a complex mix of technological and sociological factors. These include aspects of home versus commercial food preparation, changes in the technology of cooking and preserving, female - male interrelationships in food preparation, the acceptance of various minority ethnic food traditions, growing nutritional knowledge, changes in the status of individual foods, and the internationalisation of food as a result of technology spread and communication development.

Many of the changes in eating in New Zealand reflect the changing and declining importance of home food preparation as opposed to the commercial production of ready-to-eat foods. The latter has gradually changed from relatively simple food preparation such as canning to the modern production of prepared, instant and convenience foods.

Electrical and gas cookers provided the cook with much greater control over cooking, both in terms of temperature and speed. Faster cooking possibly also contributed to the decline of the long slow boiled or baked pudding, roast mutton joint. These cookers certainly gave a much better control of heat. The arrival of Coal Gas, Natural Gas and Electric Ranges were an important factor in influencing the changes in food eating.

Another factor relevant to food changes have been overseas travel, both in extent and direction, and changes in energy demands related both to international travel and to work.

1872
The Shacklock Range factory was founded in Dunedin in 1872.

1879
1880s, several brands of Baking Powder were on sale. T J Edmonds arrived in New Zealand in Christchurch in 1879 and set up initially as a grocer but soon started producing baking powder and initially self-raising flour. After a struggle, the baking powder product with the brand 'Sure to Rise' became established, and has since continued to dominate the domestic scene.

1880s to 1890s
Fruit and vegetables canning introduced; Agriculture, refrigeration and canning largely influenced the availability of kinds of food and were the seeds for the future growth of food technology.

By 1880s - 1900s
A substantial part of the population was cooking on wood or coal ranges Apart from convenience, the gas cooker and its successor, the electric cooker, were important in the development of more rapid and better controlled methods of cooking food.

1890s
European settlement hand developed, largely from Great Britain. This established British population, continuously reinforced in the 1900's was no doubt a major reason for the dominance of British food preferences up to at least the 1950's.

Important minority ethnic food traditions introduced since 1900, but little accepted before the 1960's have been Chinese, Indian, Italian, Greek, Dalmation, Dutch and Pacific Island.

1897
Campbell Ehrenfried Co. Ltd Breweries, the forerunners of NZ Breweries was formed. Around this time, all games, music, dancing, food, entertainment and even seats were lost in compromising with prohibition movement wishes.

1908
Edmonds Cookery book - originally published as a small booklet of about 100 recipes

1916
Campbell Ehrenfried joined with the Great Northern Brewery Company to form the Lion Brewery Company of New Zealand.

1917
Six o'clock closing (as a war measure) was introduced and lasted 50 years. It was known as the "Six o'clock Swill".

1920s
The gas cooker became increasingly common in the 1920's and 1930's. Electric ranges, usually imported, first appeared in the 1920's. Mechanical household refrigerators first appeared in the 1920's, although the exact date is not certain as the term refrigerator was applied also to ice chests.

1923
A giant merger of six breweries and holding saw the birth of New Zealand Breweries.

1930
Freezing started with Ice-cream

1938
Changes occurred on radio. Aunt Daisy was regularly broadcasting on radio after 1938, with cooking lessons

1940s
The deep or quick freezing of vegetables was started, becoming important in the mid 1950's and then grew rapidly.

1948
Involved few permitted additives, but a number of preservatives. The rapid growth in the number of additives and the decrease in preservatives since 1950 reflects the development of the processed food industry.

A Licensing Amendment Act gave rise to the Liquor Licensing Control Commission who could oversee and control liquor outlets and prescribe new minimum standards. Tourist-house, works canteen and wholesale licences gradually came into being; the first sales licences were granted to chartered clubs.

1950s
The deep freeze appeared in New Zealand during the mid 1950's, and has had important effects on food distribution and on both the preparation of food and the bulk storage of food in the Catering Industry.

1960s
Restaurant licences were granted (10 in all). The retail distribution of food involved small, specialist shops, grocers, butchers, greengrocers, but they decreased rapidly between 1965 and 1985 with the introduction of self-service stores and then supermarkets. The pre-1960 development of some chain store groceries (e.g. Self Help), led in the early 1960's to the development of the chain-store supermarkets, which now dominate retail food distribution.

Plastic film packaging was probably the single most important packaging development in food distribution from 1960 onwards.

Writing about food in magazines and newspapers showed gradual change during the 1960's. Before 1960, cookery books were mainly written by women for women.

1963
Television had a series of personalised cooking demonstrations, starting with Graham Kerr in 1963 and followed by Hudson and Hall.

1969
First theatre licence granted.

1970
First airport licence granted.

1971
First cabaret licence granted.

1976
Macdonald's Burgers first opened in Porirua, Wellington

1979
The most recent development in electrical cookery is the microwave oven. The microwave oven became available here in 1979-1980.

METHODS OF FOOD PRODUCTION

New Zealand is basically an Agricultural Country. Its main meat products being lamb, mutton and beef

Meats
Lamb, mutton and beef: Until relatively recent times, New Zealand was a bulk exporter of these products, e.g. sides of mutton, lamb and beef It was recognised that the importing countries wanted something more refined than animal sides. It was also recognised that greater revenue was available through specialised packaging. Accordingly most freezing works changed their procedure, that after slaughtering the animals, were then processed into specialised packs. Works that did not do this went under.

Pork
Pork has now become a valuable segment of meat production and has followed a similar pattern in specialised packaging.

Venison
New Zealand was either blessed or cursed depending on ones point of view with large numbers of wild deer. The basic herd was originally imported from England to provide sport for the wealthy immigrant landowners. Unfortunately as often as the case with imported animals, the deer multiplied to such an extent they became a pest. Deer shooting became a recognised sporting outlet for New Zealanders who made money out of the hides and also enjoyed eating the venison obtained from shooting animals. Several enterprising people decided that money could be made from selling venison and deer farming became established. The basis of the deer herd were captured animals but the importation of European Stags improved the quality of the New Zealand herds. A valuable bi-product of deer production was velvet, that is antlers taken from the stags during the growth process. Velvet was exported to Asian countries and a high price was paid for it, due to its reputed aphrodisiac qualities.

Ostrich and Emu (kalaya)
Of recent times ostrich and emu farming has taken off in New Zealand and the meat has become a specialised product. Other bi-products are the eggs, feathers and leather.

SEAFOODS

New Zealand also has the advantage of being surrounded by sea, and is able to harvest large yields of fish in its surrounding waters. With the advent of larger fishing vessels, becoming available through joint ventures with overseas countries, a large proportion of fish caught in New Zealand waters is processed at sea.

Crayfish
Crayfish were an abundance in New Zealand waters and became a significant dollar export earner. Over fishing has, however, depleted crayfish stocks so restrictions have been placed on catches.

Mussels
Mussel farming is a developing industry taking place mainly in the Marlborough Sounds.

Oysters
Oyster farming in the north of the North Island, but the bulk of the oyster production comes from its natural state, Foveaux Strait (South of the South Island. Recently, however, a disease badly affected these oyster beds, causing their closure, they are certainly open for limited production.

Salmon
Salmon farming is another specialised area of fish farming. This, however, has not proved very successful due to disease and worldwide over-production.

Tuna
Tuna fishing is a valuable earner and New Zealand tuna boats follow the tuna migration from the North Island to the South Island. Long line tuna fishing is a big money earner and if prepared properly for the Japanese market fetch astronomical prices.

VEGETABLES

A basic proportion of a healthy diet is the consumption of vegetables and is this respect New Zealand is fortunate that large areas of very fertile soil is available in the vicinity of large areas of population, for example Pukekohe in the Auckland area, Otaki, Tehoro and Levin near Wellington and the Canterbury Plains near Christchurch. The East Coast of the North Island in the vicinity of Gisborne is a large producer of tomatoes, sweet corn and peas. To capitalise on this production, large canning factories have been built and the majority of these vegetables are canned for human consumption, both local and for export. Specialisation has also followed in the production of more exotic vegetables, for example, asparagus, hot-house tomatoes, green and red peppers, artichokes, etc.

Another recent innovation in vegetable production has been the introduction of organic farming, which results in much higher prices for the products grown. Organic farming is a specialised operation, for example no chemicals are used. To enjoy the full benefits of farming, producers need certification from the Ministry of Agriculture. This is not lightly given and it can be a lengthy process before finalisation.

FRUIT

New Zealand's climate is also suitable for the production of fruit, and New Zealand leads the world in the variety and tonnage of apples, which are exported. Similarly New Zealand is the world's largest exporter of kiwifruit, Hawkes Bay, Nelson and Central Otago would be the main areas in fruit production. Large areas of grapes have been grown throughout New Zealand resulting in an ever-increasing production of wine. New Zealand produces wines now equal and sometimes exceeding other famous wine-producing countries. "Kiwifruit unsuitable for local or export consumption is used in the wine production'.

Pastural land influences the life-style, as much of New Zealand's land is suitable for grazing cattle and sheep. The closeness of the sea to everybody in New Zealand makes fishing a popular life-style because of the accessibility. The mountains have given us the life-style of hunting as they contain many different animals. The well-drained soils enable us to grow many fresh vegetables within New Zealand.

DAIRY PRODUCTS

Another benefit of New Zealand's agriculture background has been the production of cheese and New Zealand now would rank amongst the world's top producers. Once again the need to specialise in cheese production became evident and cheese factories followed the same pattern as specialised freezing works. A big influence on the varieties of cheeses produced was due to the influx of immigrants, for example Dutch people who introduced some famous brands into New Zealand production line. Milk production has resulted in huge tonnages of butter and milk powder being exported and this alone rates as one of New Zealand's highest earners.

RELIGIOUS OBLIGATION OR RELATIONSHIP TO COOKERY

New Zealand does not appear to have many obligations to religion with relationship to cookery.

Examples, however are: The practices of Roman Catholics not eating meat on Fridays originated from the fact that Christ died on a Friday. Alternatives to red meat needed to be provided, e.g. Fish.

Another religious practice is the eating of hot cross buns, the religious aspect of this is that the buns are decorated with a cross which presumably represents Christ's crucifixion.

Amongst immigrants to New Zealand was a large percentage of Muslims, a religious practice of this race is, that meat has to be slaughtered in a specific manner. A very sharp knife is used to cut the throat of the animal which, when being slaughtered must face Mecca. While this slaughtering is taking place the slaughterer mutters incantations. So this practice has necessitated the employment of special Muslim slaughter men in New Zealand meat works.

Jewish religion forbids the eating of pork as a pig is considered an unclean animal. The Jewish people eat unleavened bread at the Passover Festival to celebrate their Deliverance out of Egypt.

ATTITUDE TO FOOD PRODUCTION AS A LIFESTYLE

The public attitude to health is increasingly influenced by the advice of dieticians, doctors and health specialists. The undesirable influence of eating too much fat and fried food and its relationship to heart conditions is now being taken notice of

Correspondingly, manufacturers of food products are presenting these products to correspond to recommended guidelines. The old attitude of frying or baking, particularly meat products has changed. Casseroles in which the fat was removed and the trimming of all meats of excessive fat is becoming common practice.

The economic necessity for both partners in some relationships has resulted in less time becoming available for food preparation. This is overcome by the practice of eating out.

The flow of immigrants into this country has resulted in numerous ethnic restaurants being opened e.g. Chinese, Greek, Italian etc.

This has resulted in New Zealand people becoming aware of and appreciating other races dietary habits. This has also resulted in the preparation of these foods being done at home, e.g. most kitchens nowadays would have a wok as part of their cooking equipment, it is accepted that Chinese food is a nutritious and economical meal. Similarly, as a result of Italian migration, the use of Pastas has increased significantly. Pasta is now accepted as a healthy product.

Communal cooking was, and still does play a prominent part in Maori lifestyle on the Maori Pas. The Hangi has long been accepted as a wholesome and healthy method of cooking.

The adoption of Pakeha methods of food preparation has had a detriment affect on health of the Maori people. Takeaways and fast food outlets play an increasingly and detrimental part of Maori food consumption. Pre Pakeha days, the people utilised native herbs as a natural medicine, sadly this knowledge has not been passed on to future generations and is sadly disappearing. Older generations of Maoris were not great producers of food as there was an abundance of natural food available both on the land and the sea. The moa provided the Maori with meat and the crayfish, fish. Kina provided an alternative food while wild pork provided another alternative.

The information contained on all my historical web pages is supplied for your interest only and further research may be required. I have gathered it from many sources over many years. While I attempt to insure they are crossed referenced for accuracy, I take no responsibility for mistakes - additions or corrections are welcomed.

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